A grand convocation of twelve majestic bald eagles soared overhead, drawing endless circles against a clear blue sky. It was a visual delight for several sets of well-trained eyes, mostly folk who could clearly point out the difference between our national symbol and various vultures, osprey and other raptors.  We were quietly motoring up the Rappahannock River, west of Tappahannock toward Port Royal, guests of Bill Portlock from the Chesapeake Bay Foundation.  By the end of the day, our eagle count exceeded one hundred.   Aside from Alaska, this is the largest concentration of eagles I have ever seen.

Bill was conducting a marine ecology field studies class for Teachers on the Bay under the auspices of Virginia Commonwealth University (see page 6).  The Northern Neck Audubon Society provides five scholarships for local teachers to attend these studies.

Our excursion started with class-room time at St. Margaret�s in Tappahannock focused on key elements of the ecological system of the river. We then boarded the M/V Baywatcher at Saunder�s Wharf � No 27, on the Wheatland property, west of Tappahannock.  A well preserved classic, built in 1828 with grand wooden beams, the wharf was part of the river system that provided passenger transportation well into the heydays of the steamboat era in the 1920�s.

Of the twenty or so participants on board, about two thirds were intensely wrapped up in the richness of the experience (the other third was probably there primarily to meet certification requirements).  It was a practical, hands-on experience, measuring water temperatures at different levels, obtaining salinity readings and studying the myriad grasses & marshes on the riverbank.  Using a trawling net (the CBF has a special permit for research purposes), we sampled the aquatic population and debated the virtues and dangers of introducing non-native species like blue catfish.

The highlight, however, was the shear abundance of bald eagles. Even allowing for some unbridled enthusiasm and the possibility that some birds were counted twice, well over one hundred specimen were registered.  Most encouraging for future populations, about half of them were still juveniles, in pre-breeding black and mottled plumage, lacking the grandeur of the snowy-white head and tail.  (We had been fortunate to attend the NNAS programs on eagles that featured experts from William & Mary and could now clearly see the age distinctions).  They soared overhead and tracked our river progress from lofty perches on shore, a most gratifying testament to successful conservation efforts.

I realize that most of our boating readers are drawn to the attractions of �The Bay�.  However, if you have not made the journey up-river, you are missing out on one of the real highlights of the Northern Neck.  Try it some time (sailors - the bridge height at Tappahannock is 50 feet).  The upper reaches of the Rappahannock are a delight, with vast tracts of largely unspoiled river banks, ancient cliff-sides and one of the greatest concentrations of bald eagles you are likely to see anywhere in the lower forty-eight.